Dinner at the Mosiac
By Dale Fisher Wednesday, February 21st, 2009
Business-wise, it must have seemed a risky proposition opening a fine dining restaurant in Ubud back in 2001; but, for Mosiac's owner-chef, Chris Salans, it is a gamble that has paid off. Today, diners are not only happy to make the one hour trip from the coastal resorts, but even time their Bali holiday around the availability of a booking at the much sought-after restaurant.
Salans says he chose the name of his restaurant to reflect his bold vision of creating a fine dining experience in Bali.
"A mosaic is a beautiful picture composed of many little pieces of stone or glass," he says. "In the very same way, Mozaic is a beautiful experience composed of little pieces of Bali, France, USA and ingredients from all over the world."
Salans approach to cuisine - using modern French and American cooking techniques, with fresh market ingredients and Asian flavours - has won him many accolades, including a prestigious place among Les Grandes Tables du Monde. And such is his reputation that diners enter his culinary world on his terms.
So before you even think about stepping foot inside Mosiac's exquisite tropical garden, be warned that advance bookings are essential, a credit card guarantee for the full cost of the food is required (cancellations are accepted without penalty up until 4pm on the day of booking) and an open mind towards daring food combinations is everything.
While none in our group is a dedicated "foodie", we nevertheless decide to put ourselves in Salan's creative hands and opt for the "surprise" tasting menu with paired glasses of wine from Australia, France and Chile.
Our charming and knowledgeable waiter informs us, "There will be one menu for the madams and one for the gentlemens." And with seven courses ahead of us, he assures us we will not be disappointed in our choice.
It begins with an amuse bouche, a melt-in-the-mouth ball of buttery pastry, which is quickly followed by a frothy cold carrot soup served in a shot glass. No more than just a couple of sips, but enough to prepare the palate.
The first of the two meat courses consists of small oval discs of prime wagyu beef, marinated in spicy rending oil and accompanied by an emulsion made from parmesan cheese. It is a combination which works beautifully. The other meat dish is milk-fed veal, served with a tea infused date, sesame oyster mushroom and lemon parsley salad. Each morsel is delicious; the presentation, immaculate.
While most of the combinations are inspired, there are also dishes we find challenging. Take for instance, the crispy seared duck foie gras, with Balinese starfruit and sweet and sour broth. My first bite is into an amazing pate-flavoured crunch, followed by a soft, silky squish which coats my mouth with oily liver, so rare, it could have waddled off the plate and back to its owner. While it is one of Moziac's signature dishes, it is definitely too rich pour moi.
A course of fresh and runny goat's cheese, with walnut sable and sour cherries, leads us into the main dessert – a heavenly concoction of sweetly spiced apple, encased in "layer upon layer" of light, flaky phyllo pastry and cut with a balsamic and grape reduction.
All the courses are visually stunning; each a work of art in itself. But, while we love the ambiance of the garden setting with its flame lighting and twinkling candles, at times we strain to see what's on our plates and feel disappointed that we are missing out on some of the spectacle.
That said, this has been, without doubt, a culinary adventure. One, that has not only stirred our senses, but expanded our minds, as well as, our bellies.
Mosiac is situated north-west of Ubud in Sanggingan. Degustation menu, with a choice of two classic menus or the "surprise" costs RP 495,000(A$56) and with paired wines, an extra RP 350,000 (A$39.50) For reservations contact: info@mosiac-bali.com
