Mozaic is a surprise from the minute you enter. A former meditation centre on the road to Ubud, it has been transformed into an elegant garden restaurant with the help of some discreet lighting, a lush garden and the atmospheric haze of twinkling candlelight.The entrance is a rather grand Balinese affair and gives very little hint of what lies beyond. A main pavilion, decorated with Ubud style paintings overlooks the gardens and beyond, a large open kitchen, where chef Chris Salans runs his kitchen like a maestro directing his orchestra.
The decor and everything everything else fades into insignificance however, when the food arrives, a virtual symphony of flavours. The menu is divided into two sections; a la carte and a special tasting menu which Chris claims almost 70% of his guests choose. "The others can't go past the Foie Gras dishes which only appear on the a la carte menu," he explains.The open kitchen was not by design and would probably not have been his first choice, but it works wonderfully and my guest and I chose a garden table overlooking the kitchen where we could see and overhear all that was happening there. Those with little interest in the kitchen activity can choose to eat in the covered pavilion.
"I had been looking for a restaurant space for quite some time and when I found this place it just felt right, so I adapted my ideas to the space," explains Chris. A native American, he has spent his last five years in Bali running the kitchens at The Legian, The Chedi and most recently at Ary's Warung in Ubud. His background in Paris, New York and the Napa Valley in Californian wine country come through with force. As does his time in Bali when a thoroughly successful adaptation of Balinese flavours.
We were treated to the tasting menu; a six course extravaganza of flavours, each beautifully worked and designed to prepare the palette for the next dish. If anything, Chris' cooking can best be described as French based as he gives a lot of attention to the sauces. He can get away with it because he is secure in the knowledge that all of his ingredients, whether local or imported, are of very high quality. "I call it market cuisine, it is market driven which is a very popular way to cook in France and parts of America. My menu changes every day depending on what looks best. Imported beef, lamb, salmon and the popular Foie Gras are the foundations of the menu. To offer a tempting look at a fairly typical menu, our evening began with a delicate sliced cherry tomato appetizer dressed with a white tomato mousse, a garlic tuille and drizzled with a fragrant extra virgin olive oil. It was just enough to get the taste buds excited about what was to come. Next came a choice of fresh and nutty rosemary braised skate dressed with salad greens or a frothy chilled gazpacho with two succulent grilled king prawns and an inspired Balinese dressing.
As each course arrived the waiters impressed with their knowledge of the preparation and ingredients of each dish. Chris Salans obviously revels in his role as restaurateur; he claims that if he were able to, he would greet the guests, take the orders and cook. As it happens the open kitchen has worked out well for him as he can oversee everything white he cooks. To follow, a classic fish dish and once again a choice; a tempting seared medallion of bluefin tuna with a fresh herb dressing or a mouth watering fillet of Gindara (butterfish) on a bed of beets with a hint of raspberry in the sauce and a drizzle of horseradish cream. Throughout, fresh, hot bread is offered miniature French baguettes and steaming black rice bread rolls. Difficult to resist but in light of the extensive menu we were offered it seemed best to stop at one serve.
The main courses were meat and skillfully prepared. The lamb rack was tender and pink, served on a fresh seasonal bean salad with toasted pistachio and dressed with a pistachio infused demi-glace. The beef tenderloin melted in the mouth and was served with roasted pumpkin and a spiced pumpkin puree Accompanying the meat courses was a plate of creamy mashed potato. Heaven ! A choice of two desserts was offered before coffee; hot chocolate fondant with sour cherries and ginger sorbet and, a warm lemon soufflé with kaffir lime custard in a lemongrass passionfruit sauce. Although my guest declined dessert I for one, cannot resist chocolate and was richly rewarded. Fresh out of the oven, the moist chocolate cake oozed hot chocolate sauce when broken into and although I could not imagine finishing it, it was no easy feat putting it aside.
Coffee was accompanied by tiny pasties including a caramalised banana tart and ginger pound cake topped with chocolate mousse. I'll have to go back to try those. Throughout, the chef entertains all in his kitchen as he sings, tastes everything and chats about the food and the orders with his kitchen staff. He is very obviously in his element and extremely relaxed considering the demanding menu, even takingtime out to chat with the guests.
On whether his location, on the road between Sayan terrace and Ubud, was a disadvantage he asked me what I thought. I replied that for cooking of this standard, people will definitely travel. I will not be surprised to see locals of Sanur and Seminyak driving to Ubud for dinner. If quality counts then Mozaic is bound to be on the scene for a long time to come.